The "Toji" is the highest manager in a sake brewery. The scope of Toji’s work includes sake production, storage, quality control, and the technical guidance and management of brewery workers known as "Kurabito." This article will introduce the various aspects of the Toji profession.
The "Toji" Tradition Passed Down for Over 300 Years Since the Edo Period
It is said that the term "Toji (杜氏)" originates from the word "Toji (刀自)." In ancient Japanese, "Toji (刀自)" referred to women responsible for household chores, as brewing sake was primarily a woman's job in ancient times. As time passed, sake brewing became more labor-intensive, and the role of the brewer gradually shifted to men. The pronunciation of "Toji" was retained, and the brewers came to be known as "Toji(杜氏)."
The current "Toji system" originated in the Edo period. At that time, Toji were seasonal workers. Laborers from rural and fishing villages would take on sake brewing jobs during the off seasons to increase their income. Initially, sake brewing was a year-round industry, but the Edo shogunate issued the "Kan-zukuri Order (meaning that people can only brew during winter)" to stabilize rice prices, making winter brewing the mainstream. Consequently, agricultural workers who farmed from spring to autumn would live in sake breweries during the winter to spring period to engage in sake brewing. This working style gradually became widespread, leading to the formation of professional brewing teams centered around the Toji, known as Toji groups, across Japan.
Initially, Toji Groups Only Brewed in Winter. Japan's Most Representative "Three Great Toji"
Currently, there are still about 30 Toji groups across Japan, each continuing the tradition of sake brewing with their unique techniques and flavors. Among them, the "Nanbu Toji" from Iwate Prefecture, the "Echigo Toji" from Niigata Prefecture, and the "Tanba Toji" from Hyogo Prefecture are collectively known as the "Three Great Toji."
・Nanbu Toji
Originating in Ishidoriya Town, Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture, Nanbu Toji is the largest Toji group in Japan. They have been brewing sake since the Kamakura period, developing sake that suits the climate of the Nanbu region, and are known for producing rich and sweet sake.
・Echigo Toji
Originating in Niigata Prefecture, Echigo Toji can be further divided based on their place of origin into "Kubiki Toji" (present-day Joetsu City), "Kariwa Toji" (present-day Kashiwazaki City), "Mishima Koshiji Toji" (Koshiji area of Nagaoka City), and "Mishima Nozumi Toji" (Teradomari area of Nagaoka City). Sake brewed by Echigo Toji is known for its "Niigata flavor," characterized by a light and dry taste.
・Tanba Toji
Originating in Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture, Tanba Toji traces its origins back to Horeki 5 (1755), when Shohbe Uemon worked as a Toji at the "Yamatoya Honten" in Ikeda. Besides brewing famous sake in Nada and Itami, Shohbe Uemon also passed on brewing techniques to other regions. Sake brewed by Tanba Toji is known for its rich umami and crisp taste.
Additionally, the "Noto Toji" from the Noto Peninsula in Ishikawa Prefecture is sometimes included with the Three Great Toji to form the "Four Great Toji." Sake brewed by Noto Toji is known for its ability to highlight the natural flavor of the rice and its elegant taste.
Toji Can Be Considered the "Conductor" of the Brewing Team
The work of Toji includes selecting and polishing the raw materials, sake production, quality control, bookkeeping, and managing and guiding the Kurabito (brewery workers). Therefore, Toji not only needs to have knowledge and skills in sake brewing but also excellent communication and management abilities to lead the Kurabito in brewing delicious sake.
Just as in sports or orchestras where "changing the coach or conductor changes the team," there is a saying in sake brewing that "changing the Toji changes the flavor of the sake." This saying highlights the importance of the Toji in the brewing process. Toji’s skills and experience play a crucial role in every step of sake brewing.
With the changing times, the working methods of Toji have also diversified. From the previous "seasonal labor,” brewery owners (Kuramoto) hire Toji as employees, known as "Shain Toji," or the Kuramoto themselves take on the role of Toji, known as "Kuramoto Toji." Additionally, new Toji groups such as the "Aizu Toji" from Fukushima, the "Shimotsuke Toji" from Tochigi, and the "Toyama Toji" from Toyama have emerged. Female Toji, the younger generation, and Toji who have switched careers from other industries are also actively involved.
Despite facing challenges such as a shortage of successors and rising raw material prices, many Toji and Kurabito continue to dedicate themselves to brewing fine sake, bringing rich taste experiences to everyone.
Summary
This article introduced the profession of "Toji," which has been passed down for over three hundred years since the Edo period. Incidentally, during the brewing period, Toji and Kurabito are prohibited from eating natto because the strong proliferation of natto bacteria can adversely affect the koji mold essential for brewing. For the same reason, they also avoid consuming yogurt, cheese, pickles, and kimchi, which are lactic acid fermented foods. Therefore, before visiting a sake brewery, be sure to avoid eating lactic acid fermented foods.
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