The Japanese traditional garment, now recognized worldwide under the name "KIMONO," originally referred to all types of clothing, as indicated by the kanji characters. However, during the Meiji period, when Western clothing, known as "yōfuku," was introduced, the terms "kimono" and "wafuku" were coined to distinguish traditional Japanese clothing. In this article, we will unravel the history of the kimono, Japan's traditional ethnic attire.
Jōmon Period (circa 18,000 BCE – 300 BCE)
The kimono has evolved over time to suit the needs of each era. During the Jōmon period, kimonos were primarily used for protection against the cold and external threats. Therefore, they were simple and unadorned, made from animal skins, feathers, and tree bark obtained through hunting. As agriculture developed, fibers such as hemp were produced, and techniques for spinning thread and weaving cloth emerged.
Yayoi Period (circa 300 BCE – 300 CE)
According to the Chinese historical text "Gishi Wajinden," women wore "kantoi," a garment with a hole in the center for the head, while men wore "kesai," a single piece of cloth wrapped around the body. These are considered the origins of the modern kimono.
Kofun Period (circa 250 to 538 CE)
During this time, the influence of China and the continent significantly altered the shape of the kimono. Men wore an upper garment called "kinu" and lower garments split like pants known as "kinubakama." Women wore an upper garment with a long skirt-like lower garment called "kinumo." While today the kimono is typically wrapped "right over left," artifacts reveal that both men and women wore it "left over right" during this period.
Asuka and Nara Periods (circa 592 to 794 CE)
When Prince Shōtoku established the "Twelve Level Cap and Rank System," a significant distinction in clothing emerged between the ruling class and the common people. From this period, silk began to be used for kimonos and accessories. The ruling class distinguished their caps and clothing colors according to their rank. Furthermore, during the Nara period, three types of official attire were established based on rank: ceremonial dress (raifuku), court dress (chōfuku), and uniform (seifuku). Additionally, the "Clothing Ordinance" issued in 719 decreed that the front overlap of kimonos should be "right over left."
On the other hand, there was little change in the clothing worn by commoners, and they were not permitted to wear bright colors.
Heian Period (794 – circa 1180 CE)
During the Heian period, with the abolition of the missions to Tang China, kimonos gradually evolved uniquely in Japan. The technique of cutting and sewing fabric in straight lines, known as "chokusen-dachi," emerged, allowing for layering and material changes to suit the climate.
Noblemen transitioned from wearing court dress to ceremonial dress, while noblewomen wore formal attire called "karaginu mo shōzoku" or "nyōbō shōzoku." The term "jūnihitoe" (twelve-layered robe) originated from the practice of layering multiple kimonos. Both sokutai and karaginu mo shōzoku featured large sleeves with open cuffs, worn over small sleeves, which are considered the prototype of the modern kimono.
Common men wore "hitatare" (a type of upper garment) and "kobakama" (narrow trousers), while women wore "kosode" with an apron-like garment called "shibira" from the waist down.
Kamakura and Muromachi Periods (1180 – 1568 CE)
In the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, kimonos became simpler and more practical. The hitatare was adopted by samurai of all ranks and became the formal attire for warriors. Women began wearing kosode as outer garments, often paired with "mobakama" (pleated skirts). This "kosode and mobakama" style is still seen in graduation ceremonies today. In the late Muromachi period, cotton cultivation began, leading to the production of durable, warm, and absorbent cotton fabrics.
Edo Period (1603 – 1868 CE)
The Edo period, lasting about 300 years under the Tokugawa shogunate, saw significant developments in kimono craftsmanship. The shogunate assigned territories to various daimyos and mandated specific patterns for each domain, leading to the creation of "kamishimo" (formal attire with stiffened upper garments and hakama). Women wore "kosode," similar to modern kimonos. The technique of "yūzen-zome" (a type of dyeing) was perfected during the Genroku era. The practice of folding fabric at the waist to create an "ohashori" and various obi tying styles emerged.
The Edo period also marked the rise of the merchant class, who enjoyed economic and social influence. Despite restrictions on materials and colors, commoners found ways to express their fashion sense. Women, in particular, enjoyed accessories like combs and hairpins, which were not restricted by social status. Scenes of samurai buying these items as Edo souvenirs are often depicted in period dramas.
Kamishimo
Hairpins and Kanzashi
From Meiji to the Present (1868 – Present)
Following the Meiji Restoration, the opening of Japan to the world brought various Western cultures, influencing lifestyles and clothing styles. Some people enjoyed a fusion of Western and Japanese styles, such as combining kimono with Western lace or wearing haori over Western clothes. The government, aiming to promote Westernization, designated Western attire as formal wear for bureaucrats and military personnel in the 11th year of Meiji. For commoners, kimono with family crests, known as "montsuki," were designated as formal wear, a practice that continues today for formal occasions for both men and women.
After two world wars, the kimono culture declined, but the tradition of wearing kimonos for special events and ceremonies persisted. Nowadays, opportunities to wear kimonos in daily life have decreased, and they are mostly worn for special ceremonies such as weddings, funerals, and other formal occasions. Kimonos are also worn for celebrations like New Year's, Coming of Age Day, Shichi-Go-San, school entrance and graduation ceremonies, as well as for tea ceremonies, flower arranging, Japanese dance, and kabuki theater.
Summary
The term "gofuku," used to refer to kimonos, originally came from the Wu region (present-day China). During the Edo period, silk kimonos were called "gofuku," while kimonos made from thicker fibers like cotton and hemp were called "futomono." In Kyoto during the Edo period, merchants dealing in kimonos, known as "gofuku-sho," came from regions like Omi, Ise, and Mino. These merchants, who supplied clothing to the shogunate, the imperial family, and daimyo households, played a significant role in kimono distribution. These "gofuku-sho" later evolved into modern department stores.
The charm of kimonos is being gradually rediscovered domestically. Nowadays, many workshops offer kimono rentals with dressing services, making it easier for first-timers to wear kimonos. Why not try wearing a kimono for a special outing?
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