When it comes to "kimono," there are many types, each with distinct levels of formality. Just like Western clothing, wearing a kimono that does not match the occasion can be seen as a breach of etiquette. In this article, we will explain the basic types and levels of formality of kimonos.
【Formal Attire】
Generally, kimonos are categorized into four levels of formality: "Formal Attire," "Semi-Formal Attire," "Casual Wear," and "Everyday Wear." Formal Attire refers to the most formal kimono, worn at ceremonies and formal occasions such as weddings and funerals.
・ Uchikake ... Traditionally worn as bridal attire since the Edo period, there are two types of uchikake: the pure white "shiromuku" and the colorful "iro-uchikake." The name comes from the fact that it is worn over a kosode.
・Kuromontsuki ... A black kimono with no sheen, featuring five family crests on the back, chest, and sleeves. Women wear it as formal mourning attire.
・ Kuro and Mesode ... A formal kimono for married women, characterized by patterns only on the hem, creating a continuous "eba-moyo" pattern. It is mainly worn by the mothers of the bride and groom or the matchmaker's wife at weddings.
・ Furisode ... The most formal kimono for unmarried women, distinguished by its long sleeves called "furi." Depending on the sleeve length, it is categorized into "ofurisode," "chufurisode," and "ko-furisode," and is often worn at coming-of-age ceremonies and weddings.
【Semi-Formal Attire (Informal Formal Attire)】
Semi-formal attire refers to kimono worn at semi-formal occasions such as being an attendant at a wedding, memorial services, or Shichi-Go-San (a traditional rite of passage for children).
・ Irotome sleeve ... A tomesode dyed in colors other than black, which can be worn by both married and unmarried women. The level of formality changes with the number of crests; five crests make it "first formal attire," while three crests make it "semi-formal attire," expanding its range of use.
・Houmongi ... A kimono that can be worn by both married and unmarried women, characterized by elaborate patterns that extend from the shoulders to the hem, giving a glamorous impression. Adding one crest makes it more formal, while without crests, it can be worn in casual settings.
・ Tsukesage ... A simplified version of the houmongi, the tsukesage looks similar to the houmongi. The patterns are arranged so they do not cross the seams, but recently, the distinction has become blurred, so it is necessary to choose based on the formality and luxury of the patterns. The level of formality changes with the matching obi and accessories.
・ Iromuji ... Literally meaning "solid color," this kimono is dyed in a single color other than black and has no patterns. It is relatively casual but, like the tsukesage, its formality changes with the matching obi and accessories.
【Outing Wear (Dressy Attire)】
For special occasions such as tea ceremonies, dinners, or theater outings where you want to dress up, you choose "outing wear (dressy attire)."
・ Komon: Komon refers to a type of kimono with repeated patterns all over. There are several types such as "Edo Komon" and "Kyo Komon," characterized by their rich variety of patterns and designs. Depending on the pattern, it can be worn in slightly formal settings
・ Tsukesage Komon: The difference between "Komon" and "Tsukesage Komon" is that all the patterns face upwards. In terms of formality, it is positioned between "Tsukesage" and "Komon."
・ Omeshi: Short for "Omeshi Chirimen," it is woven using a special thread called omeshi-ito. Due to its intermediate nature between dyeing and weaving, it is considered the most formal among woven kimonos.
【Everyday wear】
For daily use, "everyday wear" kimonos are perfect as they are easy to care for.
・ Tsumugi: A representative of woven kimono, made using yarn with slubs. While traditionally considered everyday wear, it is now also used as casual outing wear.
・ Cotton and Wool: Known for being inexpensive and durable and can be easily washed at home. They are the quintessential everyday wear.
・ Yukata: The most casual type of kimono, and one of the most popular in modern times. The term originates from "yukatabira," which were worn after bathing during the Edo period. Nowadays, they are worn as casual summer attire for events like summer festivals and fireworks displays.
Summary
Here, we have introduced the representative types and levels of formality of kimono. However, the formality can often change depending on the choice of patterns and the combination with the obi. If you are unsure about what to wear for a specific occasion, it is recommended to consult a nearby kimono shop.
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